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Rice Noodles in Clear Broth with Beef Balls (เส้นใหญ่ลูกชิ้นน้ำใส): Thai-Style Noodle Soup 101

Thai Noodles
Whenever I get an email from someone asking me to post a recipe for Thai-style noodle soup which they had on their last trip to Bangkok, I always say yes. But then I always feel fearful for both of us.

I fear for myself, because I know it’s going to be a lot of work – a serious commitment. I don’t even know how or where to begin. A book, I mean, A HUGE BOOK, could be written on that one genre of modern Thai food alone. I’m not exaggerating. To write a quick, simple post on Thai noodles and the whole noodle culture would be an insult to something so complex. I fear that the more I say, the more pessimistic I sound and the more it seems that I’m talking people out of making noodles — which isn’t true. Well, kind of. But not entirely.

I’m also fearful about disappointing those who are eager to learn how to make Thai street noodles at home, because I’m not sure they know what’s involved and how much work it actually requires to turn their kitchen into a Bangkok noodle stall. See, there’s a reason noodles are not home cooking. Ask an average Bangkokian how many times a week, he makes noodles at home, and I wouldn’t be surprised if he goes, um, like, zero …?

Or maybe I think too much. Maybe you just want something simple. If that’s the case, let’s start with what I consider the easiest type of Thai (Thai-Chinese, actually) noodle soup: noodles in clear broth with Asian-style bouncy meatballs. I can’t think of anything else out of the hundreds of different types and combinations of noodles that is simpler than this. Continue Reading →

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Tom Kha Gai, the Rustic Way

Tom Kha Gai
Yesterday afternoon, as I was hacking up a chicken with a cleaver to make this pot of Tom Kha Gai, my mind wandered off to one of my older posts on Serious Eats on chicken massaman curry and the comments it had elicited (which I find very educational). That had led to this impromptu post.

One of the biggest culture shocks I experienced during the first few months in the United States had nothing to do with differences in terms of language (though that was — still is — a challenge), the use of symbols and figures of speech (I’d learned along the way how to handle that), or etiquette.

It was the bonelessness and skinlessness of meat dishes I noticed. Continue Reading →

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Southern Thai Sour Curry with Pineapple and Shrimp

thai southern curry

Remember how I was telling you that what is generally referred to as “yellow curry” at many Thai restaurants with English-language menus isn’t what is known as “yellow curry” in the Thai language but a milder, turmeric-tinted curry we call kaeng kari (kari curry)? Now this is the actual “yellow curry” (แกงเหลือง) which is what the Centralites call Southern sour curry (the Southern counterpart of the Central sour curry, kaeng som). And remember Wanvipa Koonpan, one of the owners of Bangkok Kitchen, a no-frills, down home rice-curry shop in London which I’d recently introduced to you? This is my adaptation of the recipe which she learned while spending a few years in Samui prior to her move to England.

But first, here’s a word of warning.

In general, Thai food is not always fiery hot as rumored. Also, a high level of heat (as in ‘spicy heat’) is definitely not a requirement, let alone a mark of quality, in many dishes (those who complain about Thai-style satay sauce or massaman curry being not ‘hot enough,’ I’m looking at you). Even dishes that are on the hot side (e.g. red curry which is generally hotter than massaman) can be excellent even when they’re mild. However, when it comes to southern Thai food, things are a little different. If a dish is supposed to be hot, it has to be very hot and anything milder (as subjective as it is) seems to be regarded as inferior — at least by southerners. This is to say: this curry you’re looking at is very hot.

Continue Reading →

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