Rice Noodles in Clear Broth with Beef Balls (เส้นใหญ่ลูกชิ้นน้ำใส): Thai-Style Noodle Soup 101

Thai Noodles
Whenever I get an email from someone asking me to post a recipe for Thai-style noodle soup which they had on their last trip to Bangkok, I always say yes. But then I always feel fearful for both of us.

I fear for myself, because I know it’s going to be a lot of work – a serious commitment. I don’t even know how or where to begin. A book, I mean, A HUGE BOOK, could be written on that one genre of modern Thai food alone. I’m not exaggerating. To write a quick, simple post on Thai noodles and the whole noodle culture would be an insult to something so complex. I fear that the more I say, the more pessimistic I sound and the more it seems that I’m talking people out of making noodles — which isn’t true. Well, kind of. But not entirely.

I’m also fearful about disappointing those who are eager to learn how to make Thai street noodles at home, because I’m not sure they know what’s involved and how much work it actually requires to turn their kitchen into a Bangkok noodle stall. See, there’s a reason noodles are not home cooking. Ask an average Bangkokian how many times a week, he makes noodles at home, and I wouldn’t be surprised if he goes, um, like, zero …?

Or maybe I think too much. Maybe you just want something simple. If that’s the case, let’s start with what I consider the easiest type of Thai (Thai-Chinese, actually) noodle soup: noodles in clear broth with Asian-style bouncy meatballs. I can’t think of anything else out of the hundreds of different types and combinations of noodles that is simpler than this. Continue Reading →

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Tom Kha Gai, the Rustic Way

Tom Kha Gai
Yesterday afternoon, as I was hacking up a chicken with a cleaver to make this pot of Tom Kha Gai, my mind wandered off to one of my older posts on Serious Eats on chicken massaman curry and the comments it had elicited (which I find very educational). That had led to this impromptu post.

One of the biggest culture shocks I experienced during the first few months in the United States had nothing to do with differences in terms of language (though that was — still is — a challenge), the use of symbols and figures of speech (I’d learned along the way how to handle that), or etiquette.

It was the bonelessness and skinlessness of meat dishes I noticed. Continue Reading →

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Tres Leches Cake with Thai Tea


Tres Leches Cake with Thai Tea
With the flavor of Thai tea pairing so well with sweetened condensed milk, I thought a mash-up of the classic tres leches cake and Thai tea would be fun to make. So I made it, and the guinea pigs people liked it. I made it once more a few days later. And once more people liked it. Just to be sure, I made it again last night for a small gathering. And, cha-waep.*

This is not considered classic or authentic in any part of the world. It’s just good.

You probably can’t tell from the photograph above, but the cake is soaked to the point of saturation with three kinds of milk: sweetened condensed milk, evaporated milk, and heavy cream. Every bite tastes like a piece of sponge cake that has been dunked into room temperature Thai tea with milk. Sounds gross. Tastes good.

For this, you can use any tres leches cake recipe which you’ve already tried and liked, adding 2 tablespoons of loose Thai tea to the batter. But if you like something a little lighter — spongier — you can use my Thai tea cake recipe. Simply halve it and bake it in an 8×8-inch baking dish (choose a baking dish that you can serve the cake in, because we’re not going to unmold it). Once the cake has cooled, put 3/4 cup sweetened condensed milk, 3/4 cup evaporated milk, and 1/2 cup heavy cream into one of those Pyrex measuring cups with a spout. Pour the mixture all over the cake while it’s still in the pan, making sure every part of the cake gets the milk treatment. Once all of the milk mixture has been absorbed into the cake (this takes about 20 minutes), whip up one cup (8 fluid ounces) of heavy whipping cream and spread it all over the top of the cake (the cake is already pretty sweet, so I don’t sweeten the whipped cream topping. But if you’d like it sweeter, you can certainly add 1/4-1/2 cup of powdered sugar to the whipping cream when you whip it). Cover the cake pan with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 2-3 hours.

This should be enough for 6-8 people.

*Thai slang for something that appears then disappears in a blink of an eye.

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