How to Cut and Prepare Papaya



Papaya is one of those fruits that are best eaten when they are very, very ripe. (The only exception, of course, is when you intentionally use papayas when they’re green as the Thai people do when they make the well-known Thai green papaya salad, som tam (ส้มตำ).

I always buy papayas when they’re still a little bit on the green side — the stage in which most papayas are sold in most stores anyway. This allows me to minimize the bruises on the fruit while bringing it home (papayas bruise extremely easily; you even so much as raise your voice with it and it’s bruised all over; that’s why you often see them wrapped in paper or styrofoam nets at the market). Then I leave it on the kitchen counter and let it ripen, undisturbed. This takes about 4-5 days from the purchase date based on the degree of ripeness most of the papayas I’ve purchased usually are. So, buy a papaya 4-5 days before you plan to eat them.

A perfectly ripe papaya takes on a dark shade of orange, becomes wrinkly, appears bruised externally even though it may not be, and sports ugly spots which may look moldy. Sometimes, though, there are actual moldy spots on the skin. This is no big deal, the mold is only skin-deep and requires nothing but peeling, which is what you’re supposed to do anyway. Basically, if your papaya still looks good, it’s probably not ripe enough. It needs to look quite hideous.

I usually buy my papaya from Asian or Latino grocery stores as those are places where you’re more likely to get the kind of papaya that, in my opinion, is the most delicious. The small Hawaiian papayas that are found in mainstream grocery stores aren’t my cup of tea, to say the least. The longer, larger, meatier papayas are the tastiest to me.

The fact that papayas are best eaten when fully ripe presents a bit of a problem because the softer the fruit, the more fragile it is and the more likely it’s going to fall apart on you in the process of preparing it. But fret not as this is easier than you think.

Begin by quartering the papaya: halve it crosswise, then halve each half lengthwise. Depending how big the papaya is, you can cut each quarter lengthwise into 3 or 4 spears. Place on spear, skin side down, on the palm of your non-dominant hand. Hold the sharpest knife in your kitchen (a serrated knife works very well too) in your other hand, positioning the blade horizontally and with the blade pointing away from you, slice off the membrane side, about 2 millimeters deep, in one swift motion (a see-saw motion is easier, if using a serrated knife). The key is to create beautiful, clean, and crisp edges.

Flip the papaya over  and slice off the skin in the same way. If each spear is narrow enough, you may be able to get the skin completely off in one go. But if some of the skin is still left, it’s just a matter of picking up the spare, to use bowling jargon.At this point, your sweet-as-honey, perfectly-ripe papaya flesh is ready to serve.

You can serve it in spears or cut each spear crosswise to create bite-sized pieces. If you cut each spear in half lengthwise and then crosswise, you get papaya dice or cubes. The fruit is best served and eaten unadorned, but the Thais like to squeeze a wedge of lime over it. Lime juice brings out the sweetness of the ripe papaya even more.

If desired, you can even use fresh papaya to teach your kids basic geometry as well. Like I said, this fruit is very versatile.

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Cinnamon Pear Jam


cinnamon pear jam


Bartlett pears were so perfect and plentiful during the Christmas week that I ended up buying way too many of them. Pears are best eaten fresh, of course, and I had my fill of fresh pears that week. Even so, I still ended up with a surplus of pears. What do you do with pears that are a day or two past their prime?

I thought about poaching them in red wine, but that would be a bad idea as, first of all, Bartlett is not a good poaching pear (Bosc is) and, secondly, the leftover pears I had were a little too ripe and the poaching would have just turned them into mush. So, instead, I decided to turn them into this delicious jam. As if I needed an excuse.

This jam is supposed to be on a soft and chunky side. It’s great on a buttered piece of bread or as a pastry filling.

cinnamon pear jam


Cinnamon Pear Jam
Makes about 6 half-pint jars

4 1/2 cups prepared (peeled, cored, and cut into 1/2-inch cubes) pears (from approximately 3 1/2 pounds of ripe Bartlett pears)

6 cinnamon sticks

5 cups granulated sugar

2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

2 tablespoons ground cinnamon

1 (3-ounce) pouch liquid pectin

  • In a large jam pot or a nonreactive saucepan, combine the pear cubes, cinnamon sticks, sugar, and lemon juice. (Prepare the pears just before cooking to prevent browning.)
  • Cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until the mixture comes to a full boil.
  • Continue to boil until the pear is soft, about 5 minutes longer.
  • With a potato masher, mash some of the pear cubes so you end up with some chunks and some purée.
  • Add the ground cinnamon; boil 3 minutes longer.
  • Add the liquid pectin and bring back to a full boil; continue boiling for 2 more minutes.
  • Take the jam off the heat and skim off the foam.
  • Let the jam stand for 2 minutes to allow it to thicken up. This will ensure good suspension of the pear chunks; otherwise the chunks will float to the top.
  • Fish out the cinnamon sticks and place one cinnamon stick in each jar. Spoon the jam into the jars, leaving 1/4-inch head space.
  • Cool and refrigerate for 3 months or process in a water bath and store the jars at room temperature for up to 6 months.
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Steamed Squash Rice Cakes



These little squash cakes are inspired by khanom tan (ขนมตาล), a traditional Thai dessert made of rice flour, the pulp of the toddy palm fruit, palm sugar, and coconut milk. The batter, traditionally made with no leavening agent other than the wild yeast that comes with the fruit, is left to ferment in the sun for a couple of hours to create the natural “sourdough” effects. After that, they get steamed in little cups made from fresh banana leaves. Continue Reading →

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