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Chocolate Chip Chouquettes


Anyone who has had an unfortunate — albeit delicious — encounter with these little French devils knows how dangerous they can be. Chouquettes, little unfilled puffs made out of choux pastry, are one of those snacks that you cannot stop eating once you pop one in your mouth. Plain chouquettes are dangerously addictive. Chocolate chip chouquettes? If you don’t want to end up in Chouquette Anonymous, do not read beyond this point.


Ah, I see you’ve crossed over to the dark side. Welcome.

What makes chouquettes different from plain unfilled choux puffs is the crunchy pearl sugar on top. What’s special about pearl sugar is that it does not melt or lose its crunch in the process of baking. This is what gives you the crunchy bits of sweetness on top of the warm, puffy, eggy choux — a sought-after quality in chouquettes. Pearl sugar is not widely available in regular grocery stores, but can be purchased from both virtual or physical specialty food stores. (I got mine from Sur La Table.) I use this kind of sugar all the time to sprinkle on top of brioche au sucre, soft pretzels, and even plain old muffins (in lieu of the more caloric streusel topping).

I’ve been making plain chouquettes for several years, but today I thought I would experiment with adding some dark chocolate morsels inside the choux. The chocolate chips are there to flavor the choux, not so much to fill the choux cavities. (When baked, moisture in the batter will cause the choux to puff up and form almost hollow round shells whose cavities can only be completely filled up after the choux have been baked – in the style of cream puffs.) So only a couple of chips would be enough. You could add more, but the chocolate would just ooze out and stain the outside of the choux.

How to Make Chocolate Chip Chouquettes
(Makes 36 two-inch chouquettes)
Printable Version

Start off with a good recipe for pâte à choux. (I got this one from Baking with Julia which is one of the most reliable. While I closely adhere to the original recipe when I make cream puffs to be filled with either sweet or savory fillings, I triple the amount of sugar called for when I make chouquettes.)

In a heavy-bottomed pot, bring 1/2 cup of water, 1/2 of whole milk, 1 teaspoon salt, 3 tablespoons of sugar, and 7 tablespoons of butter (cut into 7 pieces) to a gentle boil over medium heat.

Once the mixture starts bubbling, add all at once 1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour to the milk mixture and stir briskly with a wooden spoon. You want to “cook” the flour mixture for 30-40 seconds. The mixture is ready when the flour is fully incorporated and forms thin crusty film on the bottom of the pot.

At this point, immediately take the pot off the heat and start adding eggs to the dough, one by one. (You should have 6 large eggs on hand, though you may only need 5 depending on the humidity in the air or the type of flour you use, etc.) Stir very briskly with a wooden spoon after each egg is added. The first 2 additions will require quite a bit of muscle work, but after that the dough will slowly become a batter, making it easier to stir. After the 5th egg has been fully incorporated, stop to check the status of your batter. Scoop up some batter with the wooden spoon and see if the batter in the bowl detaches itself from the batter on the spoon and slowly folds over itself. If it does, you don’t need the 6th egg. If the batter forms a stiff peak instead of folding, you need to add one more egg.

Preheat the oven to 400°F. Line two baking sheets with parchment paper.

With two small spoons, drop the batter onto the prepared sheets by teaspoonfuls, leaving 1 1/2 inches of space between each round. You want to have about 18 rounds. At this point, don’t worry about symmetry yet. We’ll fix that later.

Bury 2-3 chocolate chips inside each round and top them with the remaining batter. You should end up with 36 one-inch rounds (which will almost double in size in the oven).

With wet fingertips, beautify your asymmetrical and spiky choux as well as your level of dexterity allows. After the touch-up, your choux should be round and smooth and the chocolate chips should be completely enclosed (enshrouded, encapsulated, buried, hidden, embedded, etc.).

Sprinkle the pearl sugar on top; lightly press it with your fingertips into the choux to keep the sugar crystals in place. Bake for 15-20 minutes or until the chouquettes are brown on the outside and feel light and hollow when touched. Transfer the chouquettes to a cooling rack.

Chouquettes are best served warm right out of the oven.

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Klip Lamduan: Thai Shortbread Cookies ขนมกลีบลำดวน


I hope I’m not insulting my own culture when I say that the number of Thai desserts which I don’t care for far exceeds the number of those I like. And among those I like is klip lamduan (unofficial: kleeb lamduan), old-school Thai cookies that I’ve long labeled “Thai shortbread cookies” even though, as far as I know, nobody else referred to them as such. Well, that’s exactly what they are. Continue Reading →

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Goat Cheese-Thyme Egg Mini Muffins, Khanom Krok Style

egg muffins with goat cheese and thyme
The significance of these mini egg “muffins” or mini egg cups lies in the fact that these are the very first food from which I have ever made profits. First, some background information …

When I was in elementary school, my cousins and I often played the so-called “Country Game.” It was not a game wherein somebody wins and somebody loses as much as it was a way for us kids to pass boring weekend afternoons. What we did was form a mock country with a government and a group of private citizens.

Our currency was the seashells we had gathered from past family trips to the beach. Two of my cousins were appointed the prime minister and the deputy prime minister who promulgated and enforced the law. (They didn’t do anything to earn the executive power; they just happened to be in 6th grade when most of us were in 2nd or 3rd grades.) We even paid taxes to the 2-person government who also made sure tax evaders go to jail (dark storage room behind the garage). It was the most real fake country you’ve ever heard of.


Here’s the fun part. In order to earn a living, each private citizen would search for junk around the house, including lawn and garden trimmings, to turn into marketable commodities: fresh produce, all sorts of knick-knacks, and, of course, fake edibles. It’s amazing how creative you get when garage junk is the only thing available to you. I had so much fun recycling stuff that I didn’t mind the tyrannical government or a group of citizens who looted the garage and sold for exorbitant profits things which should have been available for all at no costs.

In the beginning, we would limit ourselves to things which had clearly been marked as tossers. I had my semi-fake food stand which I co-owned with an older cousin who knew how to operate an electric portable stove. The task involved turning leftover rice porridge into little sweet rice cakes resembling a well-known traditional Thai coconut-rice cakes, khanom khrok (added 11-08-20: my recipe for the classic version is in my Bangkok cookbook), using an old, chipped terracotta khanom khrok pan which I’d found in the garage. Though these cakes were made out of edible ingredients, they weren’t exactly made for the purpose of pleasurable consumption (our dog, who would eat anything, gave them a sniff and walked away); they were just for play.


As more and more seashells entered the economy (our government was very good at increasing the number of seashells in circulation without us knowing where they came from), our little mock kingdom became more and more interesting. We started incorporating non-junk items into the market to increase the attractiveness of the products.

A cousin started reselling treats from her mother’s pantry which prompted me to adopt a similar strategy. I started smuggling fresh eggs from the kitchen in order to come up with more attractive egg khanom khrok which was much more delicious than the baked rice goo we’d served. The egg cups were very good even though they were made out of nothing but plain beaten eggs with fish sauce and cracked white pepper added to them and chopped green onions on top of them. They were a hit weekend after weekend.

Looking back, I can see now how our made-believe independent state represented a microcosm of the real system. In terms of business, we got all sorts of trickery, gimmicks, abuse of power, abuse of the law, “under-the-table” transactions, generation of false rumors or half-truths to undermine the market’s confidence in a competitor’s product, etc. There might have been some money laundering as well, though I wasn’t sure.

In terms of politics, we even had a small group of separatists who got sick of the ever-changing constitution and the over taxing of the working class and threatened to form their own country independent of our oppressive government.

When things got uglier, there were even talks about bringing the matters to the UN Council, i.e., our grandfather, who, mind you, had no clue all this was going on.
egg muffins with goat cheese and thymeYet, in the midst of coup rumors and unstable economy, my egg cup business was thriving. As it turned out, regardless of their political leaning, all citizens loved little egg cups with crusty bottoms and custardy interior.

I was happy collecting seashells until a competitor, under the guise of a well-meaning customer, suggested I replace the green onions with one particular “herb” from our greenhouse in order to create a different flavor variation. Naïve, I agreed that was a good idea and proceeded accordingly.

egg muffins recipe
Turned out, the leafy “herb” happened to be a very rare and expensive plant in the lily family which the UN Council had planted and groomed for an upcoming annual botanical competition—a much, much anticipated event. Long story short, when the news reached the UN, the UN was beyond furious.

Fortunately, I was at school when it was discovered that the plant had been uprooted and chopped up. So by the time I had to give my account to the UN, the (justified) fury had dissipated somewhat. Yet, when all of us had to appear before the Tribunal, it took every trick in the book to save our little behinds. No capital punishment was administered, but our little country suddenly and irrevocably lost its sovereignty. It had disappeared from the map since then.

It was fun while it lasted.

Goat Cheese-Thyme Egg Mini Muffins in Honor of Childhood Mischief
Makes 24 mini egg muffins using the Ebelskiver pan)
Printable Version

egg muffins with goat cheese and thyme
One dozen large eggs
4 ounces goat cheese, crumbled
1 teaspoon of Hungarian sweet paprika
1/2 teaspoon dried thyme or 2 teaspoon fresh thyme
1 green onion, finely chopped
1 1/2 teaspoons salt
A few cracks of black pepper

  • Set the Ebelskiver pan on the stovetop over medium low heat. Spray the cups to keep the egg mixture from sticking to the pan.
  • In a bowl, mix together the goat cheese, paprika, and thyme; set aside.
  • Beat the eggs together with the salt and pepper. Fill each cup half full.
  • Spoon 2 teaspoonfuls of the cheese mixture into the egg-filled cups.
  • Fill the cups almost to the brim with more egg mixture.
  • Cover with a pot lid and continue to cook for another 2-3 minutes.
  • Remove the egg muffins from the cups and repeat the process until both the egg and cheese mixtures are gone.

Variations: Consider adding one of the following add-ins to the egg mixture: chopped ham, pre-crisped bacon or pancetta bits, finely chopped roasted red pepper, finely chopped black olives, finely chopped marinated artichoke hearts, chopped sun-dried tomatoes and fresh basil, prepared pesto.

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