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Ganda in Thai Town, Los Angeles, and Its Thai Spicy Crispy Catfish (ผัดเผ็ดปลาดุกทอดกรอบ)

catfish recipe

The dish as served at Ganda
 

Let’s just get right to it,” writes James Oseland. “Ganda, a restaurant in the heart of Hollywood’s Thai Town, serves the most authentic Thai food in America.” Coming from someone else, this bold declaration would probably cause any Thai – and I mean those weaned on rice and nam phrik – to cock their head to one side and squint while inevitably and involuntarily entering the initial stage of knee-jerk skepticism.

But — lo and behold — this comes from someone who happens to know a thing or two about the cuisines of Southeast Asia, and when I read that the editor-in-chief of Saveur ate at this place five days in a row during a visit to Los Angeles, this Thai’s ears perked up.

After her ears had resumed their normal position, as all perked ears must do at some point, she hopped on a plane to California, made three anonymous trips to the restaurant, and sat down for a chat with its owner on her final visit. Continue Reading →

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Pad Thai Recipe (ผัดไทย) – Part Five: Making Pad Thai

pad thai recipe
In order for this final post in the Pad Thai recipe series to make sense (or become clear as to why it is sketchy or seems to leave out important details), it is assumed that all of the earlier posts have been read in their entirety. Therefore, if you have not done so, may I please invite you to visit the following posts before continuing?

Pad Thai Recipe Part One: The Pan – In this post, I discuss the importance of choosing the right type and size of Pad Thai pan to create the closest replica of what respectable Pad Thai stalls in Bangkok produce.
Pad Thai Recipe Part Two: The Noodles – In this post, I discuss the right type and size of noodles to use in this dish and how to prepare them.
Pad Thai Recipe Part Three: The Notable Ingredients – In this post, I introduce to you some of the ingredients and garnishes routinely used in street Pad Thai in Bangkok but often omitted at Thai restaurants overseas.
Pad Thai Recipe Part Four: Pad Thai Sauce and Seasonings – In this post, I share my favorite Pad Thai sauce recipe and discuss the seasoning of Pad Thai on and off the stove. Continue Reading →

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Fermented Beef Short Ribs (แหนมซี่โครงเนื้อ)


This dish could have been relegated to one of the posts in the remix category. But that seems unfair to these tender, crispy, fatty, sour, garlicky short ribs. Something this good deserves its own post.

Preparing beef short ribs this way isn’t common in Thai cooking, and I kind of surprised myself as I picked up some beautiful beef short ribs from the butcher when the first thought that came to me was that I should ferment them. But with the experiment ending up so well, this has officially been filed under ‘Things to Make Every Month.’

All you have to do is follow the instructions in my earlier post on soured pork ribs, substituting beef short ribs for pork rib tips. After the fermentation, wash off all the garlic and rice bits, simmer the short ribs in a pot of water (just enough to cover the ribs) for about one to one and a half hours to tenderize them. (To keep the meat on the bones, simmer gently and don’t stir them around too much). Then fish the tender ribs out of the liquid and sear them in a dry skillet over medium-high heat until the exteriors are crispy and golden brown.

[Added: November 7th, 2011 – Since then I have found that the best way to cook the fermented short ribs is to cook them sous vide then sear them crisp before serving. Cooking the ribs sous vide allows them to get tender without the fermented flavor leaching out into the cooking liquid. Another good way to tenderize the ribs without losing the fermented tang is to braise them long and slow in the oven with just enough water to cover them. Cover the pan with a piece of foil the entire time, then remove it toward the end to allow the liquid to evaporate and form a sticky “sauce” coating the ribs.]

The end result will somewhat remind you of the Italian porchetta or Mexican carnitas — albeit beefy and with the fermented tang. This is perfect eaten with warm jasmine rice or sticky rice.

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