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Yellow Curry – Kaeng Kari (แกงกะหรี่)

thai yellow curry

Kaeng Kari Chicken with Rice and Ajat

Of all the recipe requests that have come into my mailbox, the so-called “yellow curry” has got to be one of the top five. I’ve written about it in my weekly column on Serious Eats. But before you head over there, there are two remarks I’d like to make:

1. Nobody in Thailand calls this curry, “yellow curry” (kaeng lueang). If you order kaeng lueang (a name which leads to another possible confusion — more later) in Thailand, you’ll definitely get a different curry. I’d stick with calling it, “kaeng kari.” It’s a funny name, because literally it says, “curry curry.” But at least, there’s no confusion. Knowing that there are two curries that aren’t always clearly distinguished from one another helps you to avoid the mistake of not only ordering the wrong kind of curry at a restaurant, but also buying the wrong kind of curry paste.

2. Kaeng kari is almost always served with a small bowl of ajat in Thailand — the same kind of cucumber relish that comes with your satay. Even though most Thai restaurants overseas don’t do so, you may want to try it. The acidity of the vinegar, the cool and crunchy cucumber, the bite of the shallots, and the heat from the fresh pepper help kill the unpleasant feeling/flavor of “lian” (เลี่ยน) — a Thai word used to describe a rich, oily, and mostly bland-ish (for the Thai standard, anyway) dish.

Here’s a very basic recipe for kaeng kari made with boneless, skinless chicken breasts. Not exactly my favorite cut of meat for this particular curry, but it seems to work for a lot of people.

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How to Eat Satay

pork-satay-set

Not too long ago, as I was sitting all alone at table number 10 in the middle of one of my favorite places in all of Bangkok, Or Tor Kor Market, I thought of you.

Sure, I was eating alone, but, no, I wasn’t lonely. One cannot possibly feel lonely with a bag of mangosteens and a bag of durian nestling against one’s left hip — or right hip, for that matter. I was just thinking that you might be interested in how the Thai people eat their satay. I could be totally wrong about that, but I’m already four and a half sentences into this post and I’m not a quitter.

Disclaimer: there’s no canonized set of rules when it comes to eating satay in Thailand. Heck, there’s no canonized set of rules when it comes to eating anything anywhere. My role here is to report what’s usually done. Also, I’m a fan of personal freedom. Though I might avert my eyes when seeing someone eating Thai food with rice with a pair of chopsticks and firmly believe that it is a less than optimal way to enjoy Thai food, I will defend their right to eat that way.

So, anyway, in general this is how most Thai people eat their satay. Take it for what it’s worth.  Continue Reading →

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Nang Let, Khao Taen: Thai Sweet Crispy Rice Cakes with Cane Sugar Drizzle (ขนมนางเล็ด ข้าวแต๋น)

They’re everywhere — these little rice cakes with cane sugar drizzle: on the streets, in the supermarket, in snack stores from the upscale ones to the not-so-upscale ones. The only explanation for this is that people like them. A lot. And it’s not difficult to see why.

With these sweet rice cakes being so ubiquitous, I’d never learned to make them until I came to the US. Nobody in my family made/make them either. Many street foods — most of them, if you ask me — are best left to the pros. Pad Thai, for example, is not generally a family dish which people make at home. Nang Let (also spelled Nang Led) or Khao Taen (in the Northern dialect) isn’t either, though it’s possible that it might have begun in the Northern (or even Northeastern) region as a way of repurposing old, leftover sticky rice in the pre-microwave days.

But I had to learn how to make these, because they’re not available in the US. Trader Joe’s used to import them from Thailand, but they had dropped this product after a while — at least that’s the case with the stores in my area. This post is brought to you by — that’s right — desperation and deprivation. Continue Reading →

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