Krua Apsorn Restaurant, Bangkok, and Its Famous Crabmeat and Yellow Chili Stir-Fry (เนื้อปูผัดพริกเหลือง ร้านครัวอัปษร)


krua apsorn crabmeat yellow chili stir fry

My clone of Krua Apsorn’s famous dish

Sometime last year, you might have seen a woman sitting alone in front of a building on Samsen Road in central Bangkok, tranquilizing herself with fried sweet potato balls, rocking back and forth, and mumbling things. That was me giving myself a prep talk.

I didn’t take a selfie, but I think I must have looked like I could use some extra-strength Metamucil. Weird, because there were no good reasons for it.

First of all, I was in the neighborhood where my mother and her siblings were born and raised. Their childhood accounts were always fun and vivid that every time I’m in the area, I can see with my mind’s eye their joyful little footprints all over the sidewalks. This, as far as I’m concerned, is a happy place.

Also, after lunch, I knew I’d spend the whole afternoon in the dark archives of the National Library nearby — the activity which, to me, is akin to frolicking in a field of daisies on a sunny day with an ice cream cone in one hand and a stick of cotton candy in the other.

Most importantly, I was just moments away from having lunch at Krua Apsorn, one of my favorite traditional Thai restaurants in Bangkok after a fairly long period away from it. Not only that, I was planning on asking Krua Apsorn’s head chef to share with me some cooking tips. An opportunity to introduce yet another bright spot in my hometown to my readers should have filled me with joy like it always had. Continue Reading →

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The Indigenization of Thai Restaurants Overseas: Part One – American Fast Food Chains in Thailand


KFC Thailand fried chicken with green curry

Originally, this was supposed to be a short post about KFC Thailand’s fried chicken with green curry sauce, how funny the advertisement for this same menu offering at KFC Malaysia is (“So authentic even the Thais want it“), and how surprised I am to have found recently that it is quite good [1]. But after having given it more thought, I’ve found myself going off in a different direction. What this has become is the first of a two-part piece on why Thai food as found in most Thai restaurants overseas is the way it is, i.e. anything from slightly different to almost unrecognizably different to perfect-fodder-for-Thais-eating-at-a-Thai-restaurant-overseas-to-photograph-and-show-to-their-Facebook-friends-just-how-ridiculous-it-is different from what you find in Thailand.
 
At a risk of being too simplistic, it all comes down to the need — be it real or felt — to please (the locals). Ideally, you would be able to export food as it is made in one culture to another without any alteration and have it wholly embraced by the locals. But in reality, it’s not so easy. Many success stories of American fast-food chains in different countries around the world testify to this fact: indigenize or go home (or indigenize poorly and be mediocre). I know that the scope of this is unfairly narrow, but this is a blog post, not a thesis. So I’ll just cover one aspect of it which is most relevant to the subject of this blog: the making of Thai food.
 
So I’m thinking: If we want to understand the Americanization of Thai food, perhaps we should look first at the other side of it: the indigenization of American food. Continue Reading →

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Lotus in Thai Cuisine and Culture


pomelo shrimp salad in lotus petals
Somebody asked me a couple of weeks ago what my favorite Thai vegetable was. Based on his loud “Huh?”, I guess he wasn’t prepared for my answer, “Lotus stems.”

Before we get to lotus stems and what can be made with them, let’s talk about the incredible versatility of lotus. How incredible is the incredibly versatility of the incredibly versatile lotus? Very incredible — you know, this … incredibly versatile lotus. Continue Reading →

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