Durian Yogurt Cake



Have you had durian? No, not a durian smoothie or durian ice cream. Not previously-frozen-then-thawed-out-to-make-you-think-it’s-fresh durian from your local grocery store in the US either. I mean real durian — fresh as nature means it to be.

Anything but raw, fresh, never-been-frozen durian should never be considered a true representative of the king of fruits, if you ask me. I believe it’s the tasteless, mushy, previously-frozen durian that is largely responsible for turning off many who actually could have discovered how great this fruit really is. Even I, who love durian enough to make it my last meal on earth, can’t stand frozen durian half the time. But unless you live in Southeast Asia, good quality fresh durian just isn’t an option.

You just have to come to Southeast Asia.

Meanwhile, here’s one way to make frozen durian more palatable. I personally do not like durian in any form except fresh, and when I use durian in desserts, I tend to go with the applications that allow you to retain as much as possible of the fruit’s original custard-like texture. Continue Reading →

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Ganda in Thai Town, Los Angeles, and Its Thai Spicy Crispy Catfish (ผัดเผ็ดปลาดุกทอดกรอบ)


catfish recipe

The dish as served at Ganda
 

Let’s just get right to it,” writes James Oseland. “Ganda, a restaurant in the heart of Hollywood’s Thai Town, serves the most authentic Thai food in America.” Coming from someone else, this bold declaration would probably cause any Thai – and I mean those weaned on rice and nam phrik – to cock their head to one side and squint while inevitably and involuntarily entering the initial stage of knee-jerk skepticism.

But — lo and behold — this comes from someone who happens to know a thing or two about the cuisines of Southeast Asia, and when I read that the editor-in-chief of Saveur ate at this place five days in a row during a visit to Los Angeles, this Thai’s ears perked up.

After her ears had resumed their normal position, as all perked ears must do at some point, she hopped on a plane to California, made three anonymous trips to the restaurant, and sat down for a chat with its owner on her final visit. Continue Reading →

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Thai Tea Fudge


thai tea
You know how when you’re really smitten with someone, you can’t hide it from your friends even though you want to, because they see right through how you stammer like a fool when talking about that person, right? Well, this, er, Thai tea fudge, is, um, like, good, like, really, really good — like the actual tea with condensed milk, except it isn’t, you know, liquid and it, well, doesn’t come with ice. What I’m, uh, trying to say, is, if you love Thai tea, you’ll love this. And, yeah, please make it. Continue Reading →

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