Cuisines Archives: Thai

Stewed Pork Hocks on Rice (Khao Kha Mu ข้าวขาหมู) by Nong of Nong’s Khao Man Gai

nongs khao man gai and khao kha mu
When I got Narumol “Nong” Poonsukwattana, of Portland-based Nong’s Khao Man Gai fame, on the phone a few weeks ago, I wasn’t planning on asking her about how life had led her to where she is now. This doesn’t mean that I wasn’t interested in it. I was. Very much. It doesn’t mean that the subject didn’t come up during our long phone conversation, either. It did. Frequently and in a somewhat in-depth manner. It’s just that that facet of her life has already been captured in various places, such as this piece by Amy McKeever. Besides, I wanted to present something a bit different here.

What did I want to present?

A Thai cook. Able. Determined. Gutsy enough to build her business around one dish. One. Dish. Continue Reading →

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Grape-Shrimp-Cashew Salad (ยำองุ่นกับกุ้งและเม็ดมะม่วงหิมพานต์)

Grape-Shrimp-Cashew-Salad
The Thai people don’t use grapes in savory dishes, including salads, very much. In fact, the only savory dish containing grapes I had growing up was an everything-but-the-kitchen-sink salad my grandmother used to make which was similar to this one. She’d take some sour green grapes, peel them one by one, and make a quick salad out of them and whatever leftover meat we had in the fridge (mostly grilled chicken breasts, because members of our family were the type that fought for chicken butts but pretty much ignored the breasts). The herb that usually went into Grandma’s grape salad was usually fresh mint or cilantro, because we always had too much of both in the garden.

I had thought nobody else but our family made grape salad until I came across the book, Rattanakosin Dishes (1982), which includes a grape salad recipe by M.L. Terb Xoomsai, one of Thailand’s culinary greats. I don’t have the book with me at the moment, and I no longer remember what exactly goes into M.L. Terb’s grape salad. I do remember, though, that there are grapes, shrimp, young ginger, and toasted cashews. So I thought I would try to recreate M.L. Terb’s version based on a faint memory; I could have made my grandmother’s grape salad, but it came in so many forms that nailing down the ingredients would prove difficult. Continue Reading →

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Grilled Mekhong Baby Back Ribs with Thai Sweet Chili Sauce (ซี่โครงหมูแช่เหล้าย่างกับน้ำจิ้มไก่)

Grilled Baby Back Ribs with Thai Sweet Chili Sauce
This recipe is from one of my uncles who loves cooking with alcohol but does not drink. Pretty much every bottle of alcohol he purchases is for the purpose of cooking or baking, not imbibing. But just by looking at this booze cabinet, there’s no way to tell that you could get this man to give you — a perfect stranger — his date of birth, address, social security number, and the name of his first pet with just a pitcher of draught beer. But it’s true.

He’ll probably set aside his usual bashful humility and tell you also what a great, awe-shum *hic*, fantaaaashtic cook *hic* he is. This is true as well. His grilled baby back ribs, fragrant with the quintessential Thai marinade ingredients plus a very faint something-something (hint: it begins with b and ends with ooze), back up that hiccupy claim.

If you don’t have Mekhong, use any dark rum or whisky. Continue Reading →

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